The A2A Simulations Community

Hi,
I am loving this little bird so much that I am going to try my hand at building a cockpit, or should I say some panels with switches so I can operate the plane without the keyboard/joystick switches. As I know other people have built Spit cockpits, Killratio/Darryl in particular, I wonder if anyone could answer the following. If I use Linda together with a BU0836X controller, can I the just connect a genuine bakelite 5c/453 toggle switch and get it to work (have found a number on the net). Or would I have to somehow convert the genuine switch (which is beyond me).
Thanks
Martin

Switches and potentiometers can most likely just be connected and the switch/button/axis
assignments made using LINDA or FSUIPC4 (which you need anyhow for LINDA).

Guenter can give you the details on using LINDA. (one of these days I'll find that 'umlaut-u' key)

It is the gauges (physical) that will require additional software and interfacing. Darryl can
give you insight into this realm and how deep your pockets will need to be!

_________________
Paul


i5-2500K @4.3Ghz OC - GA-P67A-UD7-B3 - 8GB Corsair 1600mHz

Paul,

Thanks a million for your answer. I will give it a shot and buy the switches. I am not at the gauges stage at all. I would need a divorce first before going to that depth of detail

Best regards,
Martin

Beware!!! I started with a budget of A$2500 for the whole cockpit.....

Approx A$9,000 just for all the gauges and that doesn't count the custom lasering I had done by Chris (for "mates rates" of "quid pro quo".) It helps to have a "Gypsy" available to make them all work too!!

If you can find the Canadian manufactured switches they are half the price and are only different in lacking the A crown M stamp and you need to paint the white lettering (it is there, raised, but not painted.)

I have them throughout the pit and have A crown M ones sitting in boxes until I find some time to swap out the Canadians. They all work beautifully with the bodnar card and give a very satisfied "click"!!

Any info, advice or help you need..please don't hesitate to bang me an email or pm.

Darryl

_________________

...Some say he never blinks, and that he roams around the woods at night foraging for Merlin parts...

Darryl,

Thanks a million for the encouragement . I have just purchased 5 pcs of the AM versions at 10 quid a throw. I don't know how that price compares, but I am lazy and want to get started, so this was the easy option.

I have my eyes on a magneto switch 5C-548. Is that also easy to connect? Sorry to sound like a right prat, but I cannot even solder (yet), so I want to start gently.

Best regards,
Martin

As a retired electronic engineer I implore you to do some soldering on some none-essential
items until you get a good technique developed

I'm sure there must be some youtube videos out there that will demonstrate how and
where to apply the heat and the solder. A good magnifying lens on a stand will help,
particularly if it has an included lamp.

There is nothing more frustrating that to complete a project and button everything up
and then have to dig back in to find the 'cold solder joint' that is causing an intermittent
failure!

Paul

+1 to that!!!

The F-16 i built had around 6,000 soldering connections. Any time I spent practicing before doing that was pure gold..chasing cold solders through 6,000 points would NOT have been fun!!!

Oh...and 10 quid is a good price..I paid 15 for the air ministry ones and 6 for the "Canadians".

D

_________________

...Some say he never blinks, and that he roams around the woods at night foraging for Merlin parts...

Paul and Darryl,

Thanks for your recommendations. I suppose I'd better get started with the soldering then .

Martin